Globetrotting for Grapes: Armenia, Spain and Washington

While I can’t always be jet-setting to far-away vineyards, I’m fortunate to explore the world through my wine glass. There’s a thrill in opening the cellar and pulling a bottle that transports me, whether to a place I’ve yet to visit or back to cherished memories of regions I’ve explored. Today, I’m remembering two places and dreaming of one. 

Armenia – Areni Noir

Armenia’s history is entrenched in wine. It is often cited as one of the birthplaces of viticulture. In fact, in 2011, archeologist unearthed the Areni-1 cave winery which is a large-scale wine production facility dating back over 6,100 years. This predates all other discoveries by centuries. There are biblical accounts of Noah planting the first vineyard at the foot of Mount Ararat. 

As with many European wine regions, emphasis on wine declined during the Soviet era causing the region to be known more for brandy and bulk wine than quality. However, Armenia is seeing a resurgence thanks to dedicated winemakers who are embracing indigenous grape varieties such as Areni Noir. Through a combination of traditional methods like the use of karas aging and incorporating modern techniques, high quality wines are being produced and enjoyed. 

As mentioned, Areni Noir is indigenous to Armenia. It is found as an ungrafted vine and is extremely adapted to the challenging, high-altitude terroir found in the region. The clusters are medium to large and are densely packed. The berries are black and have thick skins with a grey-blue waxy-like layer. The terroir is volcanic with coarse sedimentary soils and the vine itself is extremely resistant to frost. The fruit is considered to be late ripening and thanks to its thick skins, is disease resistant and packed with concentrated flavors. While its precise lineage is unknown due to its ancient and indigenous status, it is understood to be an endemic variety to the Armenian highlands.

Voskeni Wines

Nestled in Sardarapat in the Ararat Valley, Voskeni Wines is a family-owned and operated winery with a long history. Its roots trace back to the early 1920s when Smbat Mateossian, a prosperous Bostonian businessman moved to Armenia with the dream of establishing his own winery. Unfortunately, his dreams were halted when the communist regime repressed him and confiscated his property during the Soviet era. Decades later, in 2008, Smbat Mateossian’s descendants returned to Armenia from Russia to fulfill his desire. They managed to repurchase the same historic vineyards once owned by their great-grandfather. Today, Voskeni cultivates indigenous Armenian grape varieties like Voskehat, Areni, Kakhet, and Haghtanat, specializing in unique production techniques to craft elegant wines. The estate’s picturesque vineyard, includes a restaurant serving authentic Armenian cuisine with a terrace with breathtaking views of Mount Ararat and Mount Aragats. 

130 Reserve Areni

This wine displays a dark, opaque ruby red hue. On the nose and palate, it offers ripe red cherry, strawberry, and plum flavors, with a hint of oak. The palate mirrors the aromatics with some tobacco. The wine is full-bodied with well integrated tannins, and medium acidity. ABV: 14%, 24 months of aging in new Armenian oak barrels. 

Navarra – Chardonnay

Navarra, located in northern Spain, is brimming in history and culture. It is bordered by the Basque Country to the west, La Rioja to the southwest, Aragon to the south and east, and France to the north. Once an independent kingdom, its identity is a unique blend of Basque traditions in the north, Spanish influences and a rich medieval heritage evident  by its numerous castles, monasteries, and Romanesque architecture. The region is particularly famous for the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), a historic pilgrimage route. Wine production in Navarra dates back to Roman times, with archaeological finds confirming its early heritage. During the Middle Ages, the monasteries along the Camino de Santiago played a crucial role in promoting and developing winemaking techniques.

While historically renowned for its fresh, fruit-forward Garnacha-based wines, Navarra’s wine industry has undergone a large shift in recent decades, embracing innovation and international grape varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot alongside its indigenous grapes. Chardonnay, is the most planted white grape variety in the region representing only a  mere 7% of all vines in the region. (Find out more about Navarra and additional Chardonnays tasted in my television segment on KSEE TV.) 

Otazu Winery

Otazu is Spain’s most northernmost Pago PDO vineyard (a wine that comes from a specific vineyard that has obtained the highest category of recognition due to the uniqueness of its terroir,) nestled just eight kilometers from Pamplona and surrounded by the Sierra del Perdón and Sierra del Sarbil mountain ranges. Viticulture in the region dates back to the 12th century, with historical documents from the Archive of Navarre revealing that even kings, such as Charles III of Navarre in the 14th century, favored the valley’s wines. 

The winery was constructed in 1840, drawing inspiration from the architectural style of French châteaux. Phylloxera plague brought winemaking to a halt for over a century in the late 19th century, but thankfully the tradition was revived in 1989 with a commitment to preserving the area’s history and honoring its culture.

Ozu

The unique and beautiful label for these wines draws inspiration from Manolo Valdés’s ‘Ariadna,’ a figure symbolizing the love story between Ariadna and Dionysus, the God of Wine. Their union led to the birth of Enopion, credited with bringing winemaking techniques down to Earth. 

This estate Chardonnay is lemon yellow in appearance and offers a delightful floral and citrus nose with a hint of petrol.  On the palate, the wine is the definition of fresh and bright with flavors of green apple and pear. The wine spent  three-month in contact with lees prior to bottling. ABV: 13.5%

Walla Walla, Washington – Red Blend

Walla Walla obtained its name when the pioneers retained the Native American name for the site which means the “place of many waters.” The region has a deep connection to winemaking that predates its modern acclaim. Italian immigrants planted the first grapes as early as the 1850s, but Walla Walla began its modern wine making status in the 1970s. Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar and Rick Small of Woodward Canyon are recognized as pioneers in the region. They recognized the valley’s unique terroir which is characterized by its arid climate, abundant sunshine, significant diurnal temperature shifts as ideal for grapevines. Additionally, the diverse soils of loess, basalt, and river cobbles allow for diverse expressions. This terroir allows for the optimal ripening of grapes, particularly red varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Walla Walla Valley AVA was established in 1984 and since has exploded with over 120 wineries, celebrated for producing critically acclaimed, complex, and age-worthy wines.

One of my all time favorite quotes relating to blends is from Jason Haas of Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, “You don’t make a delicious meal with only one ingredient.” Walla Walla’s red blends are a testament to the region’s versatility and commitment to crafting complex, balanced wines. While they do produce beautiful single varietals, many winemakers in the valley embrace the art of blending, often combining Bordeaux and Rhône varietals to achieve greater depth, nuance, and structural integrity than a single grape might offer. This approach allows them to leverage the strengths of each component; making a delicious “meal.”

L’Ecole #41

L’Ecole N° 41 is a third-generation family-owned artisan winery founded in 1983. They were the third winery established in the Walla Walla Valley and have since grown into one of the region’s most prominent wineries. L’Ecole produces wines through a combination their estate Walla Walla Estate Ferguson and Seven Hills Vineyards, and long term relationships with many of Washington State’s most esteemed vineyards. This allows them to maintain quality and consistency across the entire portfolio.

Perigree

Perigee, aptly named for the moon’s closest point to Earth, perfectly encapsulates this wine’s profound connection to its source. This wine is harvested from select parcels within the estate Seven Hills Vineyard. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvingon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot individually picked and aged in 40% new French oak. The wine screams with aromatics of black raspberry, tobacco and cassis. On the palate, cedar and dark cherry are followed by tobacco, leather and cocoa.  The complex finish is richly structured, long, and luxurious, graced with silky tannins. ABV: 14.5%.

disclosure: These wines were received as media samples, with no other payment accepted, and all opinions expressed are my own.

Slàinte! 

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