Sometimes the world is telling you something. I may not know exactly what the universe is telling me, but I think it may be I need another trip to Italy. As I was scanning through my images of my last three wines, I realized there was quite the connection. All three wines represented Italy. From the warmth and history of Tuscany to the cold precision of the Dolomites, and finally across continents to Paso Robles, these three wines demonstrate how diverse Italian varieties are.
A Spectrum of Moments
Each of these wines was enjoyed during a moment that perfectly matched its character. The journey began with the 1995 Rennina Brunello di Montalcino, which was reserved for a milestone: celebrating our 30th anniversary at Parma, our favorite Italian spot in Fresno. This was the pure definition of Old World class. The garnet color with just a hint of brick still maintained its savory aromas of dried cherry, tobacco, and aged leather, it was the perfect example of a combination of quality and history. Its surprisingly vibrant acidity cut through the richness of our Italian dinner, reminding us that the best relationships, and the best wines, only get better with time. (happy anniversary to us!)
The mood shifted dramatically when we opened the Indigene Cellars Sangiovese from Paso Robles. This bottle was opened for a casual evening at home with friends, paired with take-out pizza and conversation. The modern label which was in stark contrast to the Brunello, matched with the vibrant, fruit-forward expression of Sangiovese that the Central Coast is known for. It offered a juicy core of dark berries and spice, with enough firm structure to handle the melted cheese , tomato sauce and onion topping. It was the ideal choice for the evening; sophisticated enough to share, but relaxed enough for a cozy night in.
Finally, there was the Kellerei Bozen Alto Adige Riesling 2023. (sample) This wine was ideal as a solo companion. This was an evening of pure relaxation, curled up on the couch to binge the final season of What We Do In The Shadows with my cuddly boy, Bowen, by my side. This wine was crisp, light, and focused, offering notes of petrol, green apple, wet stone, and just the right amount of minerality. It was the perfect pour to pair with the out loud laughing . The high-altitude freshness of the Dolomites came right through. I could taste the effect of cool nights and warm days which preserved the freshness and increased complexity.
The Aged Cornerstone
The pinnacle of the Sangiovese experience arguably rests in the hills of Montalcino, and the Rennina Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. 1995 is pure history in a bottle. Pieve Santa Restituta, was acquired by the Gaja family in 1994, marking the family’s first expansion outside of their traditional Barbaresco and Barolo homes since 1859. The estate derived its name from an ancient church on the property that dates back to the 4th century AD, with winemaking tradition documented here since the 12th century. Following the acquisition, the Gaja family began significant redevelopment and modernization of the 86 acres of south/southwest-facing vineyards to align the vine growing methods with Gaja’s quality-focused winemaking philosophy. Today, Pieve Santa Restituta expertly combines traditional Tuscan techniques with modern methods, aiming to perfectly enhance the unique expression of the Sangiovese grape within the Montalcino terroir.
According to Wine Spectator, “a late start to the growing season led to a late harvest of mostly elegant, balanced Brunellos with vibrant structures.” The vintage is considered an “excellent year for Brunello di Montalcino, producing wines that are now ready to drink, though some still have aging potential. The vintage is noted for its elegant and well-balanced wines, with a cool summer and a warm September contributing to its high quality.”
The New World Reimagining
Raymond Smith founded Indigené Cellars in 2006 and is located in the Paso Robles. His mission is to produce terroir-based wines that celebrate the “native” flavors of California. Smith’s journey began in another aspect of the wine industry; the mobile bottling business, which gave him an intimate knowledge of vineyards across California and allowed for important mentorships. These connections with “crusty old Italian guys” inspired his focus on Sangiovese and other Mediterranean varieties. Through his understanding of microclimates and how they lead to different grape expression lays the foundation of Indigené’s dedication to quality.
While the 1995 Brunello acts as a time capsule, offering faded red fruit, earthy secondary notes of leather and tobacco, and a structure defined by age, this Napa Valley Sangiovese Riserva is a statement of vibrant fruit. Thanks to the California heat, the ripeness pushes the fruit profile toward black cherry and plum, resulting in a fuller body and softer, more approachable tannins than its Tuscan cousin. While both bottles showcase the beautiful, high acidity characteristic of the Sangiovese grape, the Brunello uses that acid to act as a backbone holding the wine together for three decades, while the Indigené uses it to provide freshness and lift to its richer, more concentrated New World style.
The Alpine Surprise
For our final wine on our Italian journey, we left the warmth of sunny California, put on some cold weather clothing and headed North to climb the icy peaks of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy’s northernmost, German-speaking wine region nestled in the Dolomites. While California does experience diurnal shifts, this region is defined by dramatic alpine extremes, where warm, sunny days are tempered by intensely cool mountain nights. perfectly preserving the fresh acidity and incredible aromatics in white grapes.
Riesling found its home in the area by Archduke John of Austria in the 19th century. In contrast to the often off-dry styles of its German relatives, Rieslings from Alto Adige are typically vinified dry, with low residual sugar, focusing instead on elegance.
Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano) is a highly respected quality cooperative formed from the merger of historic wineries, representing over 200 families dedicated to the region’s diverse terroir. The mineral-rich, high-altitude vineyards are a natural home for Riesling. The Hochkofler Riesling is a perfect example of the effects of this alpine terroir. It is sourced from slopes around Bolzano and the Isarco Valley, vineyards situated around 500 meters above sea level. The greenish-yellow hue, and an intensely aromatic nose of stone fruits, along with delicate floral and petrol notes is a result of the altitude.
Unifying Italian DNA
As we conclude our Italian journey, it is obvious that a single bottle of wine offers us one of the simplest, yet most profound, forms of travel. Without leaving the comfort of our home, (well, we did go to a restaurant) we’ve journeyed across continents and climates. From the sun-scorched, ancient hills of Montalcino to the modern, powerful valleys of Napa, and finally to the icy, mineral-rich slopes of the Alto Adige Dolomites, these three wines represent a single, unifying thread: the enduring influence of Italian heritage. Each sip allows us to taste the terroir, recognizing that while the Sangiovese grape may be soft and ripe in California or earth-bound and structured in Tuscany, and while the Riesling is entirely dry and electric in the Alps, they all maintain an Italian DNA.
What bottle on your shelf has transported you somewhere unexpected? Share your thoughts and tell me which of these three wines you’d open first!
~Slàinte!
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