Georgia is well recognized as the birthplace of wine. Archeological digs have unearthed. winemaking materials that date back to over 8,000 years ago. The tradition of winemaking in Georgia predates classical European wine culture. This continuous, eight-millennial-old heritage survives today through two defining elements: the qvevri, a giant, buried clay vessel, and the unique style of wine it produces, known as Amber Wine. What makes it even more amazing is that this is a history you can truly taste.
The Ancient Roots of Winemaking
Although the theory of Georgia being the birthplace of wine had been rumored, it wasn’t until the British wine writer and historian, Hugh Johnson released his book, Vintage: The Story of Wine in 1989 where he coined the region the “Cradle of Wine,” that the designation began to take hold.
The historical dig which began in 2014 solidified the title when it discovered wine residues dating back to the early Neolithic period (6,000 – 5,800 BC). Prior to this dig, it was thought that the earliest grape evidence was a minimum of 1,000 years younger. This archeologic dig was a collaborative research project between the University of Toronto, the Georgian National Museum and the University of Pennsylvania. The project was aptly titled “GRAPE” (Gadachrili Gora Regional Archaeological Project Expedition.) After the find Dr. Patrick McGovern, Scientific Director of the Biomolecular Archaeology Project at the University of Pennsylvania Museum, was the lead author of the 2017 study (published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences) that presented the definitive chemical proof.
What is That Vessel?
The qvevri is at its most basic form an egg-shaped terracotta amphora. It was buried underground to allow the earth to naturally regulate the temperature so that fermentation and aging can remain stable. The tradition Qvevri winemaking method is recognized by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” This title refers to the practices, representations, expressions, knowledge and skills that communities recognize as part of an important cultural heritage. This is opposed to the “tangible” heritage such as monuments and historical artifacts like the Qvevri itself.
The key to the functionality of the Qvevri is that it is buried up to its neck . The surrounding earth is the wine’s buffer to dramatic changes in temperature. It acts as a natural insulator allowing for a slower, more gradual fermentation process, retaining the aromatics of the wine. After fermentation is complete, the cool stable temperature allows for ideal aging. But it the shape that really is the game changer. The pointed, egg-like shape promotes natural convection currents which in turn allow for the grape solids to constantly churn, leading to an even extraction of color, flavor and tannins. When fermentation is complete, the conical bottom collects the dead yeast cells (lees), acting as a natural filter. Additionally, since the Qvevri is porous, it allows a minuscule amount of oxygen exchange which helps in the stabilization and complexity of the wine.
Defining Amber Wine
What is amber wine? It’s simple. It is a wine made from white grapes that remains on the skins. All wine gets its color from skin contact. The longer the juice sits on the skins; the darker the wine. This is most often discussed in rosé and red wine. A little skin contact of a red grape variety gives us the light pink hue of the rosé. In red wine making, the juice is left on the skins to intensify the color, texture and structure of the wine.
In the case of amber wine, white grape juice is left to ferment on the skins, seeds, and stems for days, weeks, or even months. The result of this extended maceration is the extraction of color, turning the wine a deep gold, orange or amber. Additionally, the wine will gain tannins from the skins, giving it more structure and dryness similar to that of a red wine, resulting in a robust, complex and often savory wine. The wine often has notes like dried apricot, honey, baked apple, spice and even an earthiness to it.
Amber Wine for Every Palate
Amber wine can be loosely classified into three categories:
1~ Easy-going amber: The gateway amber – Made with short skin contact (a few days), this style is brighter, fresher, and more fruit-forward. It offers the classic amber flavor profile with minimal tannins, making it a perfect introduction.
2~ Oaked amber: The traditional amber – Extended maceration (up to six months in buried qvevri) results in deep color, high tannins, and intense complexity. This is an earthy, robust, and savory wine that is meant to be savored alongside food.
3~ Full- on amber: The modern expression – This style is fermented traditionally but finished with aging in oak barrels. The process softens the tannins and introduces appealing notes of vanilla, spice, and toast, often appealing to traditional red wine drinkers.
This robust structure and savory complexity make amber wine incredibly versatile for food pairing. Depending on the style of amber wine, the range of food pairings are almost limitless. For the easy going amber give Vietnamese Pho or Thai Green Curry with light spice a try. The robust, chewy structure of the oaked amber wine stands up to the intense char, high spice, and strong, complex flavors of cumin, coriander or chili, so Indian Tandoori Chicken or Sichuan Tofu are excellent choices. As for the full-on amber? It screams for mushroom risotto or roasted root vegetables to compliment the wine’s tannin. Plus the oak notes complement the earthiness of the mushrooms. The subtle spice from the barrel is also perfect with nutty, aged cheeses.
Two Wines to Try
The Dugladze Wine Company is a leading Georgian producer with a winemaking legacy dating back to 1903. The company is committed to blending Georgia’s traditional winemaking culture with modern innovation and meticulous viticulture across its 500 hectares of vineyards. Dugladze Wine Company is known for crafting a diverse range of wines; including sparkling wines, brandy, and Chacha (made from grape pomace—the skins, stems, and seeds left after pressing grapes for wine.) With an annual production of around 20 million bottles the company functions as a global ambassador for Georgian wine. They actively export their products to over 30 countries across Europe, North America, and Asia while continuously participating in international exhibitions to elevate the global reputation of its high-quality, authentic products.
The 2021 Dugladze Tibaani is made from 100% Rkatsiteli (listen to my podcast on Rkatsiteli) This wine is from the Tibaani region of Georgia which is a historically significant Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) located in the Sighnaghi Municipality within the Kakheti region of Eastern Georgia. This appellation benefits from a unique set of geographic and climatic factors, including a semi-desert environment that provides hot, dry days followed by cool, windy nights. The vineyards are typically rooted in mineral-rich sandstone and quartz soils. As a PDO, the Tibaani designation is strictly reserved for amber dry wine, which must be produced using the ancient, skin-contact Qvevri method.
Akido Winery sources fruit from the Akura and Shilda villages within the Tsinandali microzone of Kakheti. Considered a relatively new, small-scale producer, it is dedicated to crafting natural, terroir-driven wines, notably the Saperavi and their signature Amber wine called Akura (a Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane blend). The winery strictly adheres to the traditional Kakhetian Qvevri method, fermenting on natural, wild yeasts with prolonged skin contact for up to three months, without using herbicides, filtration, or corrections. Focused on sustainable viticulture using grapes from 40-year-old vines, Akura prioritizes quality and exploration, maintaining a tiny, exclusive annual production of around 7,000 bottles.
Both Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane are ancient, high-acid white grape varieties indigenous to Georgia. They are often blended to create balanced wines like the one from Akura. Rkatsiteli, the most widely planted, translates to “red stem” and offers a full body, structure, and flavors of green apple, quince, and white peach. Conversely, Mtsvane, meaning “green,” is less common but highly valued for its intense aromatics, delicacy, and expressive notes of citrus, white flowers, and herbal overtones. Combined they provide a wine that is complete in both structure and acid while providing a fragrant complexity and freshness.
Your Invitation to Georgian History
Between the archeological digs to the UNESCO recognized Qvevri, Georgian winemaking is not just something to read in the history books. It’s a living, breathing flavorful culture that exudes from your glass. When you pour an amber wine, your are pouring history and creating a direct link to the very first wines ever made. I hope you enjoyed the article, but I hope you seek out an amber wine today and let eight millennia of winemaking history unfold in your glass.
~Slàinte!
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