If you missed part one of my Sicilia En Primeur please click here.
After the individual group explorations and the wonderful welcome party, we returned to our hotel to rest up for the long day ahead. Bright and early we boarded a bus to Modica, a charming town known for its baroque architecture and rich chocolate tradition. From there, we hopped on the cutest little “train”—it felt like something straight out of Disneyland!—that took us up to the Castle of the Counts of Modica.
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After a bit of a climb that rewarded us with a spectacular view within a rocky outcrop, we entered the the Castello dei Conti (Castle of the Counts) which has presided over Modica for centuries. Its origins date back to at least the 12th century, but was significantly expanded and fortified over several years, especially under the Chiaramonte family. The castle served as the administrative and judicial heart of Modica, housing not only the ruling family but also the town’s prison and courtrooms. Today, it’s beautifully preserved that is a constant reminder of the city’s past. It was the perfect setting to kick off two days of tastings, seminars, and more explorations.
Day one at the Castello dei Conti offered the perfect blend of educational seminars and the ability for personal exploration of the wines. We were presented with a list of 302 wines available for technical tasting, served by an individual of the AIS (Associazione Italiana Sommelier) team. The tasting room was a designed as to provide us with ample room and allowed for our own personal pace to taste. With seven hours dedicated to the grand tasting, we had the flexibility to taste without rushing.
Throughout the day, four educational seminars were offered. The topics covered were “The secrets of the brain for the oenological experience,” Refine and Evolve your communication tools without getting old,”Assovini Sicilia tells its story,” and “Protection and valorization of DO and IG productions.” We were able step out of the tasting at any point to attend whichever sessions intrigued us. I was extremely impressed with the well designed format and overall experience.
I began my day with the “Secrets of the Brain” seminar. I was so excited for the talk as it brings my love of science and wine together, and it did not disappoint. The presentation began with a brief overview of the parts of the brain and an explanation of research has demonstrated that colors activate these regions differently. For example, red food activates the brain the most while blue is significantly less stimulating. Additionally, we partook in an experiment where we had two glasses of wine and two pieces of Modica chocolate. This was an demonstration of the Heriot Watt University experiment Wine & Song: The Effect of Background Music on the Taste of Wine by Dr Adrian C. North. (read original research paper) The big take-away from this presentation was the quote, “We are not thinking machines that feel, we are feeling machines that think.”
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After the exceptional seminar, I moved onto the grand tasting. With 302 wines to choose from, it is imperative that you approach the tasting with a strict methodology. Each round of tasting consisted of six wines being brought to the table from an AIS member. I began with two rounds of sparkling wines. It was extremely educational to taste sparkling wines made from not only the Charmat method, but also in the Metodo Classico and across multiple varieties including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Nerello Mascalese and Nero d’Avola. The flavor profiles were as diverse as the color palette.
Next up were the Rosé wines. Once again I tasted some of the expected varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Frappato, but I also tasted International varieties Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as a new to me grape variety; Nerello Cappuccio. As I perused the tasting list, I took advantage of the opportunity to taste unexpected varieties such as Viognier as well as those that I had not before; these included white varieites Grecanico and Insolia, and red varieites Vitarolo and Corinto Nero. I ended my tasting session with a few dessert wines from Donna Fugata, Baglio Di Pianetto, Pelligrino and Feudo Disisa. Overall, this was an incredible experience and once again I was impressed by the entire program.
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Afterwards, we enjoyed a short stroll to see Modica and then met at the Garibaldi Theatre of Modica for a presentation titled: Wine culture in Sicily; a thousand-year history looking to the future. Here we were introduced to Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia and heard from several authorities from agriculture, quality control, new hospitality and e-commerce models, informed consumption and the need to continue improving the sustainability cause. The night ended with a trip to Villa Anna were we treated to a wine party with a gala dinner. The three chefs preparing the meals had each been awarded single Michelin stars. It was a fabulous evening.
Day two began bright and early as we returned to the Castle for tasting sessions with the 57 Assovini Sicilia producers in a speed tasting model. Each journalist had the opportunity to sit down for twenty minutes with the producers of their choice. The time was marked by the ringing of a bell, in which we would have to move on to another table. It was essentially speed dating the producers and wines. Twenty minutes is not a lot of time to learn about a winery, taste the wines and have an educational conversation, so there were a few producers that I stayed for a second round and others that I went back to to learn more.
Our day ended with a guided tour of Ragusa Ibla by Enoteca Regionale and ATS Wine Routes Cerasuolo di Vittoria. After about an hour drive, we arrived in Ragusa Ibla. Located in southeastern Sicily, this small city’s history history has been shaped by a diverse range of cultures over the centuries—including the Sicels, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans. In 1963 the town succumbed to an earthquake in which the result was the city being split into two; Ragusa Superiore being built on higher ground with a more modern layout and Ragusa Ibla, retained its original medieval heritage through painstaking rebuilds preserving its narrow winding streets. This duality led to the unique character of the city and today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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After touring the city, we were treated to a private show with Lidia Schillaci at the Donnafugata Theater (Teatro Donnafugata.) This small but historically and culturally significant theatre is located in the ancient quarter of Ragusa. It is one of the smallest theatres in Italy, yet we were entranced by its charm. Originally built in the 19th century as a private performance space for the Arezzo family, one of the aristocratic families of Ragusa.
We then migrated to the Palazzo Arezzo di Donnafugata where we had a private tour of this incredible home. The Palazzo Arezzo di Donnafugata also located in the heart of Ragusa Ibla was constructed in the late 18th century by the prominent Arezzo De Spuches family. The palace occupies an entire city block. We were truly honored as the doors are only occasionally opened to the public for exhibitions and cultural events. After the tour we enjoyed wines produced within the Ragusa region, as well as a light meal in the garden.
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A better conclusion to a spectacular week could not have been dreamt. We were bused to the hotel near Catania airport and unfortunately this is where I had to say goodbye to my new friends. My flight back to California was departing at 6am and I had a 4am pickup time. Although a lot of sleep was not had, it was worth it, as this was an experience to remember. I can only hope that I am invited back next year.
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As my En Primeur Sicily adventure came to a close, I found myself filled with gratitude for the unforgettable experiences, the passionate people and the expressive wines. I am honored to have seen the beauty of Sicily and its culture. Everything, from the ancient temples, the individual winery visits, the castle, educational seminars, wine tastings plus surprises in Ragusa, this journey was nothing short of magical. If you’ve enjoyed these two posts, be sure to check out my Instagram for more photos and videos from the trip. Salute to Sicily!
~Slàinte!
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